Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Monica - Bonjour mes amis





Bonjour toute le monde,
Sorry my poste is a little late. Also, as an EMSP grad I have to disagree with the statement that we have never been modern, but laisse tomber. I am in the south of France in a town of 40 thousand called Ales, a 45 minute train ride from Nimes or an hour from Montpellier. I have the best roommates ever (except of course for those of you I lived with in Halifax). I'm living with a German girl Mareike who is also working as a language assistant in primary schools and three french guys. One, Kenji, is doing a work placement in Ales until the end of November and then he is going back to Grenoble. Manu is finishing his last year of high school and is pretty much always high. Clement is a physchologist and just started working in Ales, and despite better judgement of not dating roommates, on est ensemble. Ales is not the prettiest town, and it is funny when we decide to go to one of the two bars in town because as there's no university it's all high school students or real grown ups. We have a huge garden and a veranda which was really nice when it was warm and sunny we would eat outside but it is getting cold now and most of the leaves are gone. Cold relatively speaking, light jacket and scarf weather. I am working in three schools teaching kids from age 6-11 and for the most part the kids have been great, really enthousiastic about learning english which is nice. I know for a fact though that I do not want to be a teacher after this. I work about 12 hours a week, and the rest of the time I plan lessons, drink coffee and eat a whole lot of baguette with Mareike. Last week we were on holiday and went to Barcelona for a few days. I still can't believe that you can get on a bus and six hours later be in Barcelona. From Toronto you would be in Montreal. I like Montreal, but no comparison. For the most part I really like it here. I told my mom that I was dating one of my roommates and she said "fine, just come home at the end of it. and don't start smoking." Bon. On verra bien. I miss the wonderful world that was King's, but France is pretty great too. and if any of you want to come visit me please do! et, c'est tout. A bientot.
Monica

Monday, October 18, 2010

Hi everyone!

I am posting the oxford street full feature movie. Unfortunately, the only way I could manage to share it was by splitting it into different youtube videos. So, please be patient as you have to load the videos in their even worse than usual quality!

follow the links and enjoy.

xo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mwIWR1OUsg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXRZdlictrU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1SDiwJugIg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTi9cNAGQN0

Friday, October 1, 2010

Orion - Correspondence

Hot Damn everyone; formative experiences you're on.

Also, gosh. I want book reviews. The Halifax Review of Books. My mother always told me to write down a few words in a special book everytime I finished a book, so that I would remember. Well let’s do it collectively online. Ella – you are reading plays. I want to hear about them. And also read them in a hammock with you. But mostly read about you reading them online. Jacob – you have been reading Tompson Highway, Nick impersonated him for a long time on Facebook – I’m sure he’d like to hear about his work. Cynthia – you have just exhausted an author! I have wanted to read Douglas Coupland for a while. Well? I hereby declare a modification to the Blog format! Anyone can skip the schedule to toss 100 words down as a review of some cultural production.

Alright fine. Nevermind. ‘We’ don’t have to.

Where am I and what am I doing? I’m not sure. Many of us are in between times which is why Natalie made this blog, right?

This blog is great. How come? Well here is a long story of why. I’m in Halifax, but have just recently returned from a long two weeks in Michigan where I was with my family, grandparents, aunt and cousin. My time was split between Ann Arbor a small university town bigger than Halifax, and our idyllic family cottage on the shore of Lake Michigan – our small chunk of a collectively owned land my grandparents were part of buying when my father was still a serious little child. It was a wonderful time to be with my family. I used to go there every summer but this was the first time in years. I have a nephew now, Istvan, who is almost 1 ½ and cute and funny as hell. He is well on his way to being a Dal jock – his two most common words (and activities) being ‘Ball’ and ‘Cheers.’ He also loves to go clubbing – particularly when ‘all the single ladies’ comes on.


We all made a special effort to be there for a sad reason. My Grandfather, Nagypapa, had cancer for the past three years – and we knew this might be his last summer. Right at the end of our visit he died. We were out shoe shopping at the time. Before we’d gone out shopping we’d been hanging out, and Nagypapa asked me what I’m excited about these days. I answered with vague excitement about the future and made comments about all my options and how I felt between communities – Toronto? Halifax? Elsewhere? Academia? Activism? Arts? Nagypapa responded that the question of roots and rootedness has been a theme of his thinking and experience throughout his life.

More recently in specific intellectual guises he has pursued the theme in studying the history of the ancient near east, and linguistics. In linguistics he is a fierce proponent of the out of Africa Theory. He holds that all languages stem from a common single language, and hence single people and single place in Africa. As opposed to language evolving separately in several homo-sapien-sapien communities already spread out geographically and culturally. In the ancient near east he studied the roots of the west, the history of the bible, Sumerians etc.

But right from his childhood Nagypapa was living during reign of nationalism and much of his life has involved crossing borders and changing identities. He was born to a Slovakian mother and a Hungarian father in 1920. 1920 that’s three years after the Russian revolution. He would be ten when the great depression would hit North America. When he turned 20 the Second World War was breaking out. He spent his early childhood in a rural town in Slovakia. He learned Slovakian and Hungarian in the home. In Slovakia he was made fun of for his Hungarian accent, while later in Hungary he would be made fun of for being a Slovak. As well as his two parental tongues his father began teaching him to read Hebrew and German when he was three. His father was a deeply or perhaps a desperately religious Jew. After a military career in the Hungarian Army (wrong side of WWI) he became a Cantor and ritual slaughterer and made a meager living as religious functionary. He would wake up four year old Nagypapa before dawn and violently force him to learn Hebrew and religion by studying and memorizing the old testament. Nagypapa loved the Bible. He identified with its stories of the poor and oppressed. But he quickly rebelled against his father’s violence and rejected religion. He consciously held himself to be an atheist before he was ten. Nagypapa found no home with god nor would he find roots with the jewish community – though he would never be gentile in his own eyes or the eyes of others.

When Nagypapa was seven his father disappeared. Seven years earlier borders had changed and Czechoslovak Republic was formed. His father had not done the necessary paperwork and found himself without citizenship. He snuck from Czechoslovakia to Hungary. A year later, the family received word that he had found a job and they picked themselves up and tried to follow him to Hungary. For travel documents they had a letter from the local Catholic priest stapled to a family photo. It beseeched Hungary’s authorities to allow the family across the border to be re-united. They tried to cross by train four times in different places and were rejected each time accompanied by anti-semitic invective.

Finally they ended up in a jail in a small border town. The town’s Jews heard that a jewish family was being kept in jail and got them out, welcoming them into their own homes instead. Nagypapa’s mother took her youngest and snuck across the border by foot. The rest of the children were scattered amongst different Jewish families in the town. They stayed with their new families for months with no concept of what was going on. Nagypapa’s adopted family began having him memorize the details of their son’s life, who was about the same age. It was a mystery to him why. Eventually, they took him across the border with their Slovakian passports, claiming to be on holiday and claiming Nagypapa as their son. He was questioned by the border guard. They passed. This occurred in various ways with his siblings and they were re-united with mother and father in a Hungarian town – Albertirsa where there was a small jewish community that his father found work.

The Jewish community was quite assimilationist. His father’s insistence on orthodox practices won the family no love. At the same time the public school he attended when he turned six had no Jews except he and his sister. He was bullied and beaten often both for his timid malnourished-ness as well as his shorn head with prominent orthodox ear locks.

Most striking to me of his tales of persecution is perhaps his story of being late. It points to those deep subtle persecutions which are often dismissed and overlooked in favour of more spectacular violence. He was a star pupil and loved school. His teacher marked him fairly but treated him coldly. She was a proud Hungarian nationalist, and as a Slovakian Jew, his bettering of his classmates was begrudged. Her anger towards him grew, however, because he was late every Monday and Thursday morning. According to his father’s practice a prayer service had to be held every Monday and Thursday morning. A ‘minyan’ of ten adult jewish males had to be present for the service to be held. The quorum was almost never met and Nagypapa was enlisted into spending each of those mornings running all over town trying to convince a few more congregation members to show up. He was inevitably late for school. But he had to meet his teachers demands for an explanation with silence that made him seem insubordinate and arrogant. In a town where jewishness and more so orthodoxy were scorned and belittled, he could not begin to explain about his father and a minyan -neither of which he himself believed in- to a proud Hungarian National. Nor could he hope to have it pass as an excuse. So he stood dumbly and received the rod.

Nagypapa describes himself living in three different worlds simultaneously at this time, none of which he felt at home in completely. One was the religious, rigorous, tedious and abusive world of his father, which he rejected, but parts of which he admired and was inspired by. One was the gentile world of school, where he saw other poor children like him, where he learned songs and stories of Hungary that he loved, but which rejected him as a Slovakian Jew. The third was his own private world in the fields, the attic, the chicken coop and other hiding places he could escape to where he mused about the world, and fell in love with nature, but felt alone and frightened of shadows and his imagination.

When he was ten Nagypapa moved away from home to go to school. He went to a Jewish seminary on singing scholarship. He was passed from jewish household to household to be fed – going to a different house each day for his meals. It was this time that he found one of his homes in revolutionary Marxism. I’ll quote him about it:

Charlie Mann, the alto soloist abandoned school and went to work in a bicycle repair shop. He was a jolly, strong, easy-going, very likable fellow. He took pity of me, as I was constantly crying. One day he told me, I will take you with me to a place, but you must never tell about it to anybody and whatever you see, you must keep it as secret forever. He took me to a decrepit courtyard in the back of it was an almost empty junky apartment with a few benches as furniture. There were pictures and some posters on the wall. It was Friday night. Soon young people began to arrive, mostly boys in their late teens, early twenties, a few girls of the same age. Their attire betrayed that they were workers or poor students. They were very friendly and treated me gently with interest and kindness.

Charlie had introduced me to a clandestine Marxist youth group. Despite my tender age, I was integrated in a cell with older kids which was led by a 17 year old student by the name of Lichtman whom I greatly admired. We met clandestinely and read, studied and discussed watered down scientific Marxist theories and leftist literature. In the spring we went on hikes in the thick forest that surrounded Debrecen. With my short but heavy life experiences I was destined to be part of this movement. It was a natural evolution of things for me that I felt I found a meaning of my life amidst these young people, to become a revolutionary, to dedicate myself to the struggle against injustice, oppression, exploitation, violence, and prejudice. We also had discussions about the peculiar situation of Jews in this configuration which befuddled us with its complexities because the Jewish proletariat was subject to all above, but in addition it also shared with the Jewish bourgeoisie the ethnic prejudice and hatred directed at them collectively as Jews. What is the solution??? Hungary was a fiercely anti-Semitic country. I remember agonizing a lot over this dilemma. In short, "the movement" became the center of my life. Charlie introduced me to the rudiments of clandestine practices of an underground movement, to watch out for informers, to see if anybody is following you, to maneuver your approaches when you go to a meeting or to the headquarters.

Hungary was led by a fascist regime from 1919 to the end of the second world war. Socialists were fiercely persecuted, and the movement had to remain absolutely underground. Eventually Nagypapa’s activities were discovered and he was expelled from school. Being expelled was a disaster for Nagypapa – for a moment his dreams were dashed. School had meant a lot to him, and he could not afford to go to any other. The seminary had been free. Further, he feared for his life. If word of his commitment to a communist reading group (then for his age ‘the movement’ was little more – apart from some hiking and singing) reached other authorities he could be jailed or killed. Cell leaders – also teenagers, had been discovered a year before. They had been arrested and thrown out the police station window. Their parents were told they committed suicide.

He eventually made it into another school by passing rigorous examinations. This time it was a more secular Jewish Gymnazium. He almost didn’t make it in, and was set back six months in his education, because of another little ethnic conflict. One of the entrance exams was in English. He had no way teaching himself English until a kind Presbyterian minister in his hometown helped tutor him with some books he’d scrounged. Unfortunately, the minister had learned his English at St. Andrews seminary in Scotland. Nagypapa’s examiner knew Oxford english. When Nagypapa opened his mouth his examiner was disgusted by his accent and failed him.
He would succeed six months later. He managed to pay by working various jobs and eventually becoming a Hebrew tutor, and then a respected tutor in general. One classmate began quietly bringing him lunch. In his second year – he could not afford to enroll and so stayed away – he classmates asked after him and then raised enough for his tuition amongst themselves and brought him back.
He graduated with dreams of becoming a filmmaker but he could not immediately afford to get to France or Italy where he would study. Also, by this time the second world war had begun. He became a shoemaker, and he became good enough that the skill, and the favour it won him, would save his life in the concentration camp.
In 1941 he was drafted into the Hungarian Army. He would not fight but was put into a Jewish Brigade of forced labourers. They were gradually stripped of their uniforms and status as citizens and finally as humans.
He survived the holocaust, he says, due to his experience with hardship and hard labour growing up, luck, and his bootmaking ability which was highly prized amongst the officers. His camp was liberated by Russian soldiers.
After the war he finally went to Paris. He wrote a letter from there to his cousins in Michigan. He’d never met them before, but had heard of them and tracked down their address. It’s a funny and amazing document – written in his school learned English, at 24 or 25 years old – he tells these distant familiar strangers about himself and asks about them. The majority of his family, including his parents, did not survive the holocaust. In the letter it is evident he is reaching out to any family he has left in the world, just for the sake of having family.
In Paris he met my nagymama – she was washing her socks at a fountain at the moment. She was an American girl, from a not very well off family in Michigan that had also found its way to hope in communism. She had collected money from friends to make the trip to france with a group to aid in restoration. After a week they agreed to be married. Then Nagymama went back to Michigan for two years to finish her university degree. The corresponded. Afterwards she returned to Paris and they were married. My aunt was born and they moved to Budapest; they were both devoted to helping build socialism in Hungary.
However, Nagypapa became frustrated in Hungary. Again, he almost did not make it across the border. Once he was in he was treated with constant suspicion because of his American wife. There was a fear that he was some sort of spy or counter-revolutionary. He got a job in a library, but wallowed in the same position for years. It was a bitter experience because he was quite ambitious.
In 1956, when my father was a two, there was an uprising in Hungary against the existing socialist regime. It was lead or sparked by the students. Nagypapa believes it to have been a real revolutionary attempt made by committed communists against a regime they considered to have strayed from the communist cause. The soviets soon moved in a squashed the uprising. They re-instated a pro-soviet status quo. But in that brief interim the borders became more permeable. My grandmother and baby father and aunt took the opportunity to defect. Nagypapa, for some reason stayed behind and followed later. I’m kicking myself right now for not remembering this particular story in more detail. But once again he was repulsed on several occasions by national lines. Finally he escaped through farmer’s fields, carrying his dress shoes in his hands.

Before he left Hungary, his younger brother, like all good brothers gave him a parting gift of a couple pairs of underwear. Nagypapa’s brother is the opposite case of Nagypapa. He did not have his ambitions blocked by the communist party. Instead in communist Hungary he found respect and rose to heights of responsibility that a poor jewish peasant could never have dreamed of otherwise. He was in the army. And his underwear were army issue, with ‘Hungarian Army’ printed in bold Hungarian script on their elastic.

Nagypapa is on a ship crossing the atlantic. He is coming from England and he is on his way to McCarthy era United States. In his bag are underwear boldly declaring their membership in the Peoples’ Republic of Hungary Armed Forces. His bunkmate is an American. Nagypapa begins to get nervous. Is his bunkmate just any American? Or is he C.I.A. – is there even a difference? Nagypapa is nervous and getting paranoid. Finally, after several days of amiable conversation, during which nagypapa is constantly on the verge of vomiting, it gets to be too much. In the middle of the night he sneaks out of his bunk anxiously clutching his underwear under his coat. He creeps up to the deck and with furtive looks around, shaking with fear, he casts his brother’s underwear as far as he can into the middle of the Atlantic. Nagypapa always laughed telling of that nervous purge and liked to wonder where those underwear ended up.

There was a huge picture and headline in the local newspaper when Nagypapa arrived in Michigan. The press snapped up any story of defectors from the Soviet Bloc. It made large of the family escaping the clutches of communism. The story Nagypapa told the reporters was that he had moved back to postwar Hungary because as an aspiring short-story writer he felt he could only make it in his mother-tongue. This was partially true. He would never say that he had moved there to help build socialism. In the united states he could never identify as a socialist and dream of a future. So began a new identity of the rigorous academic of library science.



Just two months ago, we were sitting down for lunch in Ann Arbor. We’ve gotten into the habit of singing a song before each meal (I mouth along). Nagypapa picks the songs usually. Being jumbled in ethnicities and nationalities {link?} all his life, he’s taken delight in learning folk songs and national anthems and passed them on to his grandkids. This time before we sat down he said, go and close the windows. We thought, hmm, it’s mighty hot, but we closed them. He said we are going to sing l’internationale. L’internationale is the anthem of the international communist movement. We did and when we were done he said okay go open the windows now, and we ate.


….After calling all this depth of life history to mind –being tossed between motherlands and ethnicities, being split amongst worlds, and rarely finding an unproblematic home- he said to me ‘And you know, Orion, what I finally concluded? That home is where the junk-mail finds you.’ He was grinning with pride at this bad joke, this little gem of ironic wisdom. Home is where your name is known, you have a place associated with you – and most importantly, people keep track of you. Too bad its people who want to sell you crap, but at least its people keeping track of you. So that’s why this blog is so great. We can all send each other periodic junk mail and feel a little kept track of and a little at home with each other. It’s such a nice bonus that the mail isn’t junk.

Thanks,

Orion

p.s. thanks especially if you made it through. I planned more humour - cause that happens with boundary crossings and Identity confusions --- but I dunno it went this way instead.

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Alyza - The Real World DC

Two weeks ago I pulled up to a small house and unloaded my luggage into a 5 bedroom house which would house 8 strangers for an entire year. The living situation is one part of my year in Washington. I am a part of an intentional communal living situation. We have weekly house meeting, we do communal shopping, cleaning and cooking. It is a far cry from MTV’s Real World. I sleep in a room with two other girls (who are amazing). Unlike MTV’s Real World, where participants live a lavish life with dream jobs, in my house we all work in a variety of non-profits which dedicate their time, effort, heart and soul to helping those living in poverty. For many of my housemates, our jobs are our dream jobs. Many of us are working outside our comfort zone and within demographics we may never have encountered before. Some of my roommates work with battered women, other with the homeless, and some with those have been evicted. There are serious ups and downs to each of our days. It is a beautiful and challenging experience to live with like-minded people who spend their days doing really heart wrenching work. However, there are uplifting moments in each day and we try and hold onto those precious moments.

My organization is Thurgood Marshall Academy Public Charter High School. It is located in the poorest neighbourhood in Washington DC, Anacostia. It has a reputation of being dangerous and scary. This is true but a lot of it is a misconception and the belief is fueled by the fact that very few white people venture to that part of DC. My school (TMA) is amazing. It is a law themed school. Every single student who graduates is accepted into a University. This is much higher than the national average and ten time higher than the average of the area. The rate of people in Anacostia with a degree from a post-secondary institution is 8%. However, this is not like Glebe or any other High school we went too. The school is strict. Everyone wears a uniform, there is no chewing gum, there is no time in between classes, and lunch is 30 minutes. The school is 99% African American and 1% Hispanic. The faculty and staff are about 50-50 black and white. So far, all I can tell is that this school gives kids who may not have a future, a future with endless possibilities. I edited a student’s essay today about who she looks up to. The list was primarily about her family (specifically her mom). However, at the end of the essay, she wrote about how TMA pushed her to her limits. She wrote about how the school enabled her to recognize that she could accomplish her goals. My personal goal is to form relationships with these kids. Find out their life story and help them whatever that may mean. I have never been a teacher before. They call me Ms. Weinberg and that is strange. Institutionally there is distance between me and them and unlike any other role I’ve had with children in the past. For the first time in my professional career my job is not only about fun and games. I run educational programming including but not limited to homework help (you should see me attempt algebra), anti-defamation league club and law day. Law day is a program where we take the entire ninth grade to firms once a month. The students learn about a specific thing (discrimination, negligence, criminal law) and participate in mock trials and round table discussions. As preparation for these field trips, the permission forms give me insight into the lives of my students.
I work with four other people. All of whom are amazing and being in the office is fun. We have an endless supply of candy and the teachers come in and say hi and eat our food. All of the girls have curly hair and as one girl commented on my first day work. “You program girls all have curly hair, it is like you are taking over the world”. Another girl asked me if I knew Drake or was on Degrassi since I was from Canada. I am going to keep a running tab of how many different white actresses I will be told I look like (currently in 4 days of work- 2 different actresses). I can already tell my job will be both challenging and fulfilling. It is going to take time to win over the students and have them recognize that I’m in it for the long haul. Some days I get picked on by 10th graders. I am the new comer to a school where everyone is family.


My job keeps me on my toes. However, another entirely different, but equally as fascinating part of my life is where I live. I live on the border of two neighbourhoods (Georgia Petworth and Columbia Heights). These are two gentrifying neighbourhoods. As my boss drove me home from our Volunteer Kick-Off (at a law firm with a terrace that just about made me want to join the corporate world), she encouragingly said, this is a very up and coming neighbourhood. I am in the heart of a political, social, and cultural revolution in these areas. I live on a block with a public housing complex but four blocks away are million dollar condos. In my two weeks, I’ve seen at least two people be arrested. There is a police station a block from me but I am somehow not comforted by their presence. I witnessed an eviction which is a heart breaking occurrence. My job and the jobs of my roommates inform us about how complicated living in poverty is. Every day we witness first-hand the structural injustices. We, one on hand, are against gentrification. We observe the condos being built and Target and box super stores moving in. These stores get rid of local business, and they displace local people and businesses. On the other hand, these stores employ lots of people who previously were unemployed. The trend in DC is that when a metro stop is built that brings in business and gentrification. We are conscious of the fact that the metro stop is crucial in connecting the different parts of the city. Ten years ago Columbia Heights was unheard of and what people had heard about was violence. Now, it is a budding area with a vibrant community including an organic market on Saturdays. My part of the neighbourhood is far less built up and we have been given instructions that being out by ourselves at night is not wise. Down the street there is a school that on one side has a liquor store and on the other side as a strip club. I have an internal struggle everyday about what I am doing and how I am contributing to the neighbourhood in which I live. I am not comfortable here yet. And I hate that I jump at the opportunity for a ride home because walking the ten blocks from the metro to my door makes me nervous.
I am really happy though and I know that two weeks in I cannot make any judgments. In my next post, I’ll have more to say I’m sure and will have different opinions.
Until Next Time
Alyza

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Simon - "Virtue never stands alone. It is bound to have neighbours" (Confucius, Analects 4:25)


Well, I wanted to drink from the big red fire-hydrant, and it has not withheld itself for my favour.

How can I give you some sense of smell and taste in these short pages? I suppose I'll start at the beginning.

My travel only really began somewhere on the way onto the plane in Vancouver Airport. It's one thing to see throngs of Asian-Canadians in a city that has its own reputation and history, but it's quite another to be addressed in Chinese and expected to have some sort of experience for this, and to be given a meal of rice and chicken on board, and to read from a rather gaudy Chinese magazine while watching Jackie Chan flicks and a captivating story about some slaves in pink clothing, a landlord, a prostitute, and a rogue Qing soldier who kills them all. This was followed by a rather terrible propaganda film about some budding young red guards tasked with organizing cleaning and decorating work on the southern gate of the Forbidden City for Mao's infamous, and only, public speech. (The film was obviously a reflection of the party's new values since it did not think it important to suggest that the snappy young red guards probably lost about a good half of their closest friends to starvation, shellfire and execution.)

Speaking of the flight's video entertainment, I invite you to consider the following: You are a flight designer, and you are aware of course that many people have a paralysing fear of flying. Would it then be advisable to place a camera on the underside of the plane which stares down the nose of the behemoth as it taxis its way down to the runway to take off, and to broadcast this show on the personal video system of the plane for curious passengers? It's hard to consider, with our Canadian sensitivities, a Star-Aliant flight doing this. But on China Airlines, this is considered fair sport, and I must admit that it made my own flight one of the most beautiful if not surreal experiences I’ve had in an airplane. After take off, the camera switches to staring immediately downwards, eventually providing some beautiful views of the hills north of Korea. And I didn't even have a window seat.

...

I've had some time to explore a bit. I took a first trip to the Forbidden City, whose premisses are too big and too crowded to see in a single tourist-packed day. We also wandered around the square, which was very impressive, but looked as if some three thousand of its tiles had been cracked under the summer pressure.

I've also managed to make it out to the Confucian temple, which is down the road from the imposing Lama temple in the quiet hub of the old scholar’s corner of the city. This wonderful temple resembles the forbidden palace in that it is two courtyards capped by sitting halls and a gateway, but there are more trees and infinitely less people. You can go read a book all day without being disturbed, which is exactly what I did. For about 35 kuai, I picked up a copy of the Confucian Analects in English and Chinese and sailed my way through four books of the sage's advice.

Some of the Analects, like most pieces of holy drivel, are self-evident. Some of it is pedantic. Some of it evokes a whistle: “Barbarian tribes with their rulers are inferior to Chinese states without them” (3:5). But much of the Analects is profoundly ethical, a profound achievement for a time when there was very little space for contemplation. Confucius, is often thought of as a grumpy old man with his dogmatic commitments to the correct display of rites, but he was living in a time where emperors and officials used their power to shamelessly exploit the splendour of religious events for their own advancement, a crass populism based on who could pay for the most line-dancers. So, Confucius thinks that it is better to avoid obsequiousness when possible. He advises officials holding a rite, when in doubt, to choose frugality before extravagance; but in mourning, “it is better to err on the side of grief than on the side of indifference” (3:4). Think of this the next time a friend you don't know too well has a death in the family. That letter probably isn't as awkward as you think it is. There is also a democratic spirit in his pedagogy. Having come from poverty, though from a good family name, Confucius believed that theoretically anyone with the patience of mind and effort could become a good scholar, and thus a good official. He reasoned that the ability to cooperate with others and to avoid resorting to force were more effective measures of character than all the stupid myths of blood and heredity. Also, I was delighted to find that God's not so accurate claim to Adam and Eve about the nutritional value of apples (Genesis 2:17) is, by number, a sister-passage to the Analects' earlier phrasing of the essential Socratic definition of education: “To say you know when you know, and to say you do not when you do not, that is knowledge.” I think I can easily say which passage is the more honest.

The temple's own walk-thru exhibit on the life of Confucius puts much of this into perspective (though it also helps to illustrate how Confucianism became more like a state religion than a philosophy of governance. We learn of the myths of the sage's birth which, though he had an iconic father, is slightly unexpected and has the familiar traits of a parthenogenesis). There is also an odd moment in the gallery where a page of text is displayed with a caption proclaiming in Hegelian certainty that Confucius predicted that the great “Harmonious Society” would be preceded by a period of “relative prosperity”. The party's own investment in this revelation is evident enough.

...

The TEFL training consisted of a three group split which rotates throughout the day between three teachers. They're all wonderfully nice and helpful people, but you could tell this was as arduous and stressful for them as it was for us.

My favourite thus far however has been Chuck (doesn't give a fuck). Indeed, Chuck does not give a fuck about protocols and the silliness of the usual TEFL business words like “content” or “personalization”. Chick would much rather impart useful advice gleamed from his time on the mainland, like how to use google.cn to download legal and free music that the Chinese will never buy. This spark-plug from Cleveland moved to Beijing to teach English classes and has been doing it for thirteen years. His hair has flattened into a longish grey silk sheet barely covering his crown, and his moustache is stained with nicotine around the nostrils. This is the stuff novels are made of...

...

In part, I came to experience something like the real living contradictions of capitalism. Consequently, I have not been able to avoid dealing with the vulgar topic of money. Some observations:

First, Lenin once said that “money has no smell”, but I have to admit that I can definitely distinguish my fresh crisp kuais from the dirty market pomegranate ones. Bills are still very much common use for even small purchases, and they're hard to stuff into a machine to recharge your subway card. There are single kuai coins, but they're rare. In general, if it's a piece of metal, it's probably worthless.

Second, you can't understand the use value of money without using it. This is especially true in the case of bargaining. Nothing above the price of a meal has a set-price. You must bargain for your clothes, bag, bicycle, mobile phone, tea set, stationary, etc. This is a lot to learn, especially with a minimal grasp of Chinese. Most salespeople keep a calculator for their encounters with the silly “laowai” so they can type their price bids in for one another (meaner fruit vendors will simply flash a one handed number sign). They can be quite shrill when it come to the process. I submit to you my own experience for your moral refinement.

Walking around the third floor of the Pearl Market, I wandered helplessly around the clothing and leather-goods section. Rounding a far corner, a seemingly sensible young lady asked if my hair was real, “and please can I touch it?”

uh oh. I know what comes next, I thought.

But really, I had no idea. The lady had barely taken time to register my unwillingness to visit her little stall before she grabbed hold of my wrist and began to pull. Between sliding behind me and draping her breasts all over my back, this dragon lady asked about my nationality, my time in China, and then moved on to simple flattery. I said that I knew very well what came next, and once again had no idea. I don't remember how the subject came up, but my wrist-guardian playfully insisted that I must buy something or else she would have to kill me. When I gave my equally playful “ok”, she drew her palm across my throat in a mix of eros, thanatos, and commerce. With another pull (and what a pull at that!) I was staring at a few nice knock-off belts. I circled in on the white one, just to get a price and get out of there, but at the instance of 280 kuai, I had my out. I started my goodbye and wandered round the corner. No sooner was I a few pace away when I was grabbed by the other wrist by yet another girl and pulled back in by the two of them, fully clothes-lining another western shopper in the process (goodness knows what happened to him). Despite my best efforts, I was routinely failing to get the price bellow the one hundred line. My saving grace you ask? I only had a miserable 25 kuai in my wallet (about five bucks). They literally searched my wallet to prove this. Well my inquisitive readers, that's how you get a bargain. Don't have money. I walked away with the belt, an odd feeling of arousal, and just enough cents to buy a bottle of green tea.

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On the subject of children and teaching, I will only say a few things since many of you have already written excellent accounts of both already.

First of all, it is impossible to speak about China's children without talking about the notorious “one child policy”. Much has been said about the resulting “xiao huanli” or “little emperors”, often describing how much they are coddled and spoiled, while simultaneously receiving gigantic expectations from their parents and family. What I never thought of, however, came brilliantly to hand in class one day. “Ji-ji” (let's call him) got into a fighting mood and started a kicking fit before being hauled away into another room. A coworker shook her head in an unconcerned manner and explained to me, “he has trouble learning to play nice with others. He doesn't have any siblings at home, you see?” I'm often annoyed how little my favourite political authors had to say about China, but there was something compelling in Hitchens' claim that the party might be the first to succeed in making fraternal love literally impossible...

Given this, the children come to school and have a little trouble being weened off the comforts of home. I am in the first trench of this awkward moment, the first year of kindergarten for some very well-off 2-year-olds at a prestigious and expensive kindergarten (see what I mean about the combination of privilege and demand?). Their mothers or grandmothers are often there, either helpfully or unhelpfully, to help their children ease into what will become the normal rhythms of school life. This puts an odd sort of pressure on me at least and I have more patience for some than others. Like those mothers in the US who show up at their son's law firm interviews, these ladies can insist in a manner that lets their children forget their normal courage; and I'm also somewhat annoyed by how many of them tug on my arm and point while demanding their child to go speak with “the foreigner”.

On a similar subject, I've lost some of my confidence in that euphemism we were all brought up on that “racism is not engrained, but learned”. While this may still be true, it is nonsense to suppose that children “do not see race” before they are given the appropriate spectacles to see differences in skin colour, face shapes, hair (for which I receive daily compliments), etc. They notice pretty damn early, and lacking any relevant experiences of the world, it is natural for them to treat the new with suspicion and fear, like green things on a plate one has never eaten from before. To make matters worse, I'm also one of the only boys my age many of the girls have ever seen (besides their fathers or policemen of course). For the first two days, and finally thawing as of the date I am writing this sentence, girls would literally sink into corners and burst into tears if I so much as waved hello. Giving away treats was an opportunity for a meltdown. Vina, my coworker, anticipated all of this and our first lessons are essentially Welcome to School! Free play until children are not scared of the foreigner. Oh sky!

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I've run out of space and of time. I will write again, I'm sure, but must breath a little first. I hope you all keep writing and remind me that I'm not the only one well off my usual track. Keep well, keep writing, keep arguing, and continue to keep the harmonious society alive, the only one I believe in. And spare a though for me this Wednesday when I shall be taken to a banquet by my school, on the accidental date of my birthday, and asked to take a toast from everyone at the table, one at a time, draining my glass for each of theirs. The firehouse, alas, is a formidable pressure.

-Simon-